On top of Maniitsoq

It has become autumn and Maniitsoq’s rooftops are covered with crystalline frost. Although it is a cool morning, it’s perfect weather for a hike with sun from a cloudless sky and calm winds.

My goal for today is Iviangiusat Mountain – or Pattefjeldet in Danish – which with its 567 meters is the highest mountain on the whole island of Maniitsoq. On the hiking map, the trip looks affordable, about 10 km each way, but I know it might be harder than expected and as far as I know, the route is not marked.

I head up to the quarry, which is located at the northwest end of town. I don’t see any markings, but I just follow the gorge towards north to reach an open area with many pebbles. From here I’m in doubt about how I get down to the valley to the north – The Flower Valley as it’s called.

First I walk to the left, but only to find some steep descents, then finally I go right, where I find the “right” way down to the valley. In the summer it should be a beautiful scene with diverse Arctic flora, but here in September most of the flowers have withered. The cottongrass, however, stands beautifully with the white tufts fluttering in the wind.

I continue heading west and reach the drinking water lake. Suddenly, I discover the first marking – a white cross – and I begin to follow them north of the lake. Then I lose them again, and the next hour or so I go with no sense of direction other than following the map and knowing that I have to cross the narrow land passage north of the Sarfat Fjord (see the map).

By luck, I discover the white crosses again, and start believing they may lead to the top of Iviangiusat Mountain. I continue following them.

Then comes an apparently easy ascent through a gorge. The shadow side of the gorge is icy in places and I just get to thinking I have to be careful before I slip! Luckily, I only hurt myself a little. The ascent ends and it starts to go downhill, I’m still in a gorge with semi-steep mountain sides on both sides.

At some point, the gorge narrows and several large boulders have to be climbed either above or below them. I try to find the safest passages, which is not that easy, but quite challenging.

Out of the gorge I take a rest by a cairn on a hill top and enjoy the view and get some food. Even though it’s below 5 degrees in the shade, it feels nice and warm in the sun.

After about an hour I reach a valley just below the Iviangiusat Mountain. The valley is really beautiful with large angelicas and a lush, green vegetation on both sides of a small river.

From here it just goes up and up in a northerly direction, following the river and the white crosses, and I pass one small meltwater lake after another. I also get the pleasure of walking on drifts of old snow from last winter.

On the ridge, a loud bird attack has broken out above my head. Two ravens are chasing three white-tailed eagles with loud screams and frontal attacks. The ravens do not succeed and eventually give up while the eagles continue their long hovers.

After a bit of climbing I reach the top of Iviangiusat Mountain. On top of the World – 567 meters above sea level! I’m enjoying the amazing view. To the east and north I see the archipelago, many mountains and the Greenland ice sheet. I can also see some of the houses in Maniitsoq. To the south I believe I’m able to identify mountains at Nuuk (which I have heard one should be able to do), but I didn’t bring binoculars so I’m not sure. To the west unfolds the vast Atlantic Ocean or rather Davis Strait. It’s so clear I’m imagining I can see to Canada, which is impossible though.😉

The hike back to Maniitsoq goes somewhat faster as I now know the way. I get home just before sunset. It has been a really fantastic though demanding hike and it must be one of Southwest Greenland’s most beautiful day hikes.